It was but a short drive to the Legendary Blackwater Rafting Company's HQ, where we were suited and booted ready to tackle the great underground. Is there anything more wounding to one's dignity than trying to heave your lardy bulk into a 10ml wetsuit in full view of a bunch of superslim backpackers in their early 20s?For anyone who knows anything about wetsuits and the cold, I offer you this: