I am not at all sure that it is possible to buy a cup of coffee in Indianapolis. You can certainly buy cardboard mugs, jugs and buckets but cups are nowhere to be seen. I guess it saves on the washing up but I just cannot drink that much coffee.

Yesterday I had breakfast at Einstein Brothers (a Bagel and coffee). I got the smallest coffee they served and it was the equivalent of 4 regular cups. I could drink only half of it. Same story today at au bon pain.

To me it is awful – but the locals love it and hell – it's their country – I'm just passing through.

I widened my search out a few blocks today and discovered a hairdresser for men, a liquor store and two shoe stores and a comic store (which had closed down). Other than this the centre of Indy is a vast collection of restaurants and offices.

It seems that apart from the Mall in the centre – all the major stores are out of town – and why not – that's where the people are.

They do have really wide roads which all seem to be one way. There are swarms of panhandlers with at least one on each corner. I gave money to the man with the sign which said 'Why Lie? It's for Beer!'

I went for a long walk and checked out the war museum. I have wanted for some time to see the memorial to the USS Indianapolis which was the last capital ship to be sunk in World War 11. It is a truly scary story about sailors being eaten by sharks while they drifted for days in the Philippine Sea.

http://www.ussindianapolis.org/

Cate is as usual well frazzled by work issues but she snuck away from last night's festivities (bowling and a knees up) so that we could go to Shula's Steakhouse in the hotel. Cate was not at all interested in the fact that Don Shula coached the Miami Dolphins to two Super Bowl wins.

She was however terrified by the meat presentation trolley where a young man held up various parts of a cow and explained what they were and how he could cook them. Don apparently grows his own beef and I wouldn't be surprised if he also killed them with his bare hands – he certainly looks tough enough.

http://www.donshula.com/index.php

Cate was due to finish at lunchtime today but of course she will be working all day and night and will also have to work tomorrow morning.

She will be cheered immensely by the fact that on the first leg tomorrow to Denver we are going on a shuttle so will be in steerage – and can fight about our baggage allowance. However, once at Denver we are able to assume our revered status as Business Class passengers and I imagine Cate will celebrate by having a drink or two.